tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6312712281221533133.post5948135466804363502..comments2024-01-14T00:55:57.930-08:00Comments on Born To Lose: The heroes you know...borntoloserhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02922208514367026740noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6312712281221533133.post-16978827180067368802008-12-21T08:20:00.000-08:002008-12-21T08:20:00.000-08:003 and AMbrose- nice to hear you have first hand kn...3 and AMbrose- nice to hear you have first hand knowledge of the place and person. <BR/><BR/>I once saw a guy go over the falls on a set wave on a medium size day and hit the shelf. He ended up dislocating his soul or something. Guys had to swim him into the beach. <BR/><BR/>I'll take wimp waves nowadays.borntoloserhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02922208514367026740noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6312712281221533133.post-36283204124924120672008-12-20T12:54:00.000-08:002008-12-20T12:54:00.000-08:00two posts on here that stike a chord and bring up ...two posts on here that stike a chord and bring up old memories --<BR/><BR/>for those fortunate to catch his act back then, pure genius in the tube , not to mention some of those side slip slabby air drops!!<BR/><BR/>one of these days gonna ride the scoot down to cap'n jims at salton sea and pay egghead and the old man a visit -- s.a.AMBROSE SURFBOARDShttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05722537194284856539noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6312712281221533133.post-71470491594845079962008-12-03T08:29:00.000-08:002008-12-03T08:29:00.000-08:00I was around San Diego during that kid's ascendenc...I was around San Diego during that kid's ascendency and had heard he fell to the cheap thrills that catch up many a beach community kid: drugs and alcohol. While I can't say I know much about his surfing, I do know that spot and your comment, "...nothing prepares you for the high drama of heavy tube riding..." is especially true there given the ledge that wave hits. Falls there are, er, uncomfortable to say the least and it always amazed me to see others (I never got shacked there) just rush the place when it got good.<BR/><BR/>DavidDavid J. Hirshhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04829712847518530459noreply@blogger.com