Sunday, May 25, 2008

Quadfecta complete...

The quadfecta is complete! In March, with a shoulder high groundswell running, I undertook the greatest challenge ever conceived in surfdom- the quadfecta! My goal: to get barreled standup, kneelo, boogie, and body surfing in one session . My tools of victory were 5'6 Chris Christenson keel (not ghostshaped by his able ghostie nor machined by KKL), 41" BZ boogie, Mismatched pair of swim fins- size medium large. It took me two barnacle scraping donut dives before I finally got my standup keg. A little pigdog number (I'm sure you've seen the pictures.) My kneelo wave came to me quickly. This was the belle of the ball. A speed run through the barrel over the shelf to the pinching shoulder. My boogie barrel came a few waves after my equipment change. I got some great near- exits, but my in and out was a small, boogie-only sized tube. The bodysurfing barrel was easy. I drifted right in front of the shelf until a little wedge came through. I had to duck a dozen waves or so, but that's not so hard without a board. I exited the water to cheers and was doused with champagne on the rocks overlooking The Rock.

Below: the wave where the quadfecta was (at last) completed. Will anyone ever dare to attempt such a feat again? Oh, I think that is Matuse's Ian O' getting some good ones in the vid.
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4 comments:

  1. DannyMay 27, 2008 at 10:38 AM

    Bravo!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Beach BumMay 27, 2008 at 12:05 PM

    I'll second that...

    ReplyDelete
  3. Brent McD.May 30, 2008 at 11:48 AM

    what up ian. you shoulda been deeper, ha!

    ReplyDelete
  4. 23 BreathsJune 5, 2008 at 7:19 AM

    Not sure is compares with your other trifecta of Father, Husband and Teacher but why quibble?

    We need to get back together for another mat session.

    ReplyDelete