Sunday, October 3, 2010

Small Me-steries...

One of my favorite publications, The Surfer's Path, has just released a small feature that I wrote and helped organize about the recent movement towards the "small moments" in surfing as they are represented on film. I like it. I hope you do as well. I wrote this story a long time ago and it took a long time to get to print. I think it came out quite well. Some great artists were involved. Cher, Jack, Erika, Liz, Rudy, Keith, Simon, Morgan and my forgotten mists all deserve a look.

Me, I'm wiped clean. One surf in the last month. Got a few little barrels during the last week's near-epic conditions. Thankful. I've been weighed down with the joys and responsibilities of breathing day to day. I'm looking forward to a bit of sleep and serenity.

Hope you are well.