Sunday, February 9, 2014


A Week With Tristan Sullaway from will salvato on Vimeo.

He was a little kid when I first met him surfing Fo' Sho'es. That make me older than I was then, too. He used to be all fish and log and such. Now he's a shralper.

Friday, February 7, 2014


Travers Adler, One Session At Rincon. from Morgan Maassen on Vimeo.

Along the certain path of adulthood, as it's sold, there are certain obligations that carry both joy (different than happiness) and challenge.

From my cliff-side morning walk with my sweet dog Jake I get to see the swell and about a mile of coast. This is daily. This is surfline for real and without the ugly. I see swell and tide and wind and reef and crowd and rips. What I have seen recently has been just great, really nourishing. Good swell and great conditions for nearly two weeks.

Yet I, the responsible and restless, have surfed only a handful of times. My wife is freshly back to full-time work, bless her, as a teacher. Hours are long. That leaves me and the gremmies to our own wonderous afternoons.  We imagine and play, explore and snack, hike and splash. But I don't surf.

Tomorrow is Saturday. I will be surfing. I hope to enjoy an expressive, joyful slip'n'slide out front. Beachbreak with bad access equals no crowds! In my imagination I am the kind of surfer that Mr. Adler, above, represents. All trim and pocket play with a dash of thrash (though I am slightly less self-aware I think.)

See you at the beach. I will be the one with the smile.