Friday, October 26, 2007

Lis Fish- Backside...

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Very smooth surfing by RK on a 5'6 Lis.

This was me this morning...

Ripping on my fishy,

Ruling with fins only,

half-man, all momentum!

Or maybe that's Rasta, Stewart and Greenough taken from other sites.
It was a fun surf this morning. My spot had some long sandbars and lots of space. Smoke seems to be clearing up a bit, too. Keep looking for that board!

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Some consolation...

My friend, Sei in Japan, a fellow fish lover, sent me this pic as consolation for my recent stolen board. This is an unknown OB surfer (Pendarvis himself?) with a Pendo-Lis hybrid. I have a board on order from Steve. Maybe I could see how one of these rides firsthand? Please keep an eye out for my lost board! Thanks!

Sunday, October 21, 2007



My favorite board, a 5'8" Steve Lis twin keel was stolen as I surfed last night at Torrey Pines. I must have left the car (silver Element) unlocked. My wallet, keys, phone and everything else were untouched. I chose to ride the shortboard instead of the Lis and I paid for it. If you know or hear anything please contact me. The board had signed Geppy fins and a clark foam lam on the right pin of the fish tail. Please spread the word.

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Different Strokes...

This used to be my favorite boogie spot. This winter I am going for the quad-fecta at this wave: get barreled bodysurfing, boogieboarding, kneeboarding and surfing all during the same session!

During high school and college I used to be a very low level professional bodyboarder. I got one paycheck. One. Then I went on to be a sales rep for a few bodyboard, fin and clothing lines. It was fun. I still like to boogie some shorebreak! the photo galleries in A-Frame are pretty good. I actually learned to surf before boogie-ing. I guess the call of the barrel was too strong. Many years later I find myself enjoying all types of surf craft. Have you ever ridden a surfmat? It's enjoyable.

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Larmo Large-o

Here's the truth. I love 5'6" fish. That's my go-to size. But I also love 6'6" fish. There used to be a clip here on the world wide web of RK owning scorpion bay on a 6'9". There's something special about the wide tailed slide with the high line glide of a too-big twin keel at a point. Larmo made this one a while back. I sold it a while back. Regrets. Always regrets after a sale.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Frye please?

Photo usurped by force from SurfySurfy
I am currently on a hunt for a Frye Fish. I have/had fish shapes from many notable shapers but somehow never found my feet sliding on a Frye. I don't know Skip. I have friends that do but I'm not one to impose my dreams on others' pragmatism. When I see Skip in the lineup I smile and admire- I would never presume to grovel in hopes of a board (although it has crossed my mind). If you happen upon some fortunate Frye owner in need of a quick payday please contact me. Heck, if you happen to read this, Skip, take favor upon a keel loving surfer! I'll bring you a blank, a donut and a pile of stoke! I went to Mission Bay too! I was a distance runner! Please!

Monday, October 15, 2007


I just finished reading a bit from Kimo Hollinger in the new Surfer's Journal. I love his tell-it-like-it-was prose. It is always full of north shore as wild west town imagery and plotline. I wonder if there is another North shore out there?

I had a chance to visit the far north Hawaiian island chain paradise last November. just developed enough for comfort, perfect surf in warm water, Hawaiian culture- unbelievably expensive. Now my skill set travels well. But it doesn't merit much pay. This puts paradise out of reach. Or at least this particular paradise.
Is there a place to serve as my H-bay? My Nias? My Pipeline? My Cape St. Francis?......
Probably. Will I ever find it and make the move? Probably not. Truth be told- I like the shade of green I find on this side of the fence. Once you learn to love an area's waves, to know them, it's hard to consider abandoning that knowledge in a betrayal of geographical dimensions.

Saturday, October 13, 2007

Any log heads?

I have had this 60's Harbour for a while. Found in a trash can. Surfed it while it had gashes and no fin. My buddy Matt restored it-partially. I'm ready to hand it off to someone who will finish the job and enjoy the board. If you love logs let me know and perhaps you can have a new (old) one.

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Secret Spot!

Sierra Secrets. Jay, Erik, Justin, Andy, Rock, Wind, Water, Elevation, Memory.

The wisdom of the young...

A while back I helped young Cobi work on his solution to beach pollution. Cobi is a good kid with a great family and saltwater in his veins. His little summer project has turned into a surfrider sponsored, full page in surfing magazine, appearing on FUEL TV movement! Let's pick up 3!

Monday, October 8, 2007

Everyone knows...

You can not surf a twinny fish on your backhand.


This is my favorite summer board. Old, floaty and with a spirit all it's own. It needs a restoration but I still ride it-delams and all. I've noticed a resurgence of eggs in the water around SinDiego. Young shapers aren't afraid to carry on the tradition.


This last summer, just before school began, we were given a trip to Breckenridge, CO by my parents. I believe their words were "Someone's got to use the timeshare!" Thanks!

Board gone bad

This is a handshaped "bonzer" from Manuel Caro at Mandala surfboards. I ended up with it after trading a handshaped Christenson Slider that was just too much board for me. The bonzer turned out great. Flexy twang off the bottom, high line heaven, nice carves for a fish with 7 1/2-8" pin to pin. A real keeper.

Labor day trip to Baja ended up with some fun swell. Hit a point and a beachy with the bonzer. last surf of the trip I am getting back on the board after kicking out. I slide my hand up the rail and gouge a very large cut into my finger with the side runners! Session ended.

A week or so later I go to take the little bonzer out in some appropriate conditions. Mental block. Psychological trauma. I can't pull the trigger. I pull out a different board. Visions of lacerations dance through...

Board is sold.

Things I Love


Lis Max and Jake

The title of this blog is ironic. I have everything. Monkey, Mermaid, Boards from legendary shapers, Weiner dogs. Not necessarily in that order.