Wednesday, November 28, 2007

I ride trays too...

What do they say about people and their dogs? Holds true.

I have a mat from Dale Solomonson on the way. My friend and role model, Larry, turned me on to mat riding. I've only done it a couple of times. Take my word for it- fun! Now take my word for it and add a few letters- functional! My time being in demand between family and work requires that each trip to the ocean counts. I'm counting on the mat to be a change from the norm and functional in many wave types. Weekday into weekend trip to northern point break will see some mat time come January.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

My son is named G.G...

Not his true name. But his preferred name. I used to be in a punk band or two. Maybe G.G. Allin? I think more likely G.G. of the mat and the knee. Little guy is a surfboard nut like his dad. every time we go in the garage he goes and rubs his hands down the rails of boards. "Burboar". I'm making him a board right now. 3'10". I scaled down a template from this dude:
I found an old broken board in the trashcan at Shores and stripped the glass. I'll have it done by his birthday. Any good surf toys out there for my little grom?

Monday, November 26, 2007

So I was wearing the right uniform...

No leash, white board with no lam. I expected no vibes as I headed down south past the super-localized right reef. My goal was a left that works well on extremely low tides and solid west/north swells. Fun evening session ahead.

Except I forgot one part of the uniform- you can't associate with anyone not wearing the correct uniform.

I was walking down with a buddy who likes to boogie-board.

I pass one guy I saw a week and a half ago at a beachbreak and he gives me the cold stare and gives my buddy worse. Last time I saw him he was stoked and happy to talk about boards and Mex. Now I'm a leper.

I pass another guy, well known surfshop dude. I used to sell him fins and stuff as a sales rep. I get the arctic glare and my buddy gets worse. We used to be quite cordial.

Prejudice? Paranoia?

Had a great session and walked back north and up the bluff in the dark. Back to work today and looking forward to another arvo session.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Definitely not machine shaped...

I cannot verify. Local shaper with alliterative name and unmistakable talent can make anything by hand. Proof above. 5'6" x 20 1/2" x 2 5/16" shaped as personal ride for the shaper. Fell into my hands- now a favorite. Reliable Source posits that shaper's "100% handmade" claim is no longer legitimate. I cannot verify.

Having an item handmade makes it unique, special. A handmade item is set apart from the cyclone of mass-market consumerism/capitalist lust. I hope that Reliable Source was, in this circumstance, unreliable.

I'm not against shaping machines. I see their merit. I am against false claims at the expense of credibility and surfers.

I still surfed this board this morning. Sweeeeeeet!

Speaking of Baja...

Pics from a late summer sojourn.
The aptly named. Bring your log, fish, or mat.
A clean little peeler.

-Age it by about ten years and it will be the perfect baja traveler. Good gas mileage, good storage capacity, AWD, easy sleeping inside, and a totally kooky appearance/driver! I used to have the full on truck setup but it wasn't practical for my commute. Go ahead, laugh.

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

An unfortunate decision...

I have a problem. Well, maybe many of us share in this problem. The peninsula directly to the south of Sin Diego hosts some of my finest memories of surf sessions. It holds the potential to fill every one of my vacation days for the rest of my life with right hand point break surf. I like to camp. I like to get dirty. I like to speak in mangled Spanish. I like to surf without a crowd. I like to set a fishy on the high line in conditions that suit it completely. I like to drive past where the gringo masses are "adventuring" and actually go on a little adventure.

However, I am not tough. I am not intimidating. I am, yes, well, er, umm...scared. Maybe saddened is the right term. Between the exploding development down to Ensenada and the growing crime problems a question emerges- is California Sur a risk/reward scenario that makes sense?

Monday, November 12, 2007

Consider, discuss...

The SimFish, pictured here in a 5'10 model, is offered by Eaton through The Swift Movement Surfing Boards. Please send me one by mail so as I might try it on a clean, lined up beachbreak. Thank you.

Wednesday, November 7, 2007


An interesting concept.

Derek Hynd and others exploring finless wave sliding. If only they could've seen me on that old Harbour sliding in circles across microscopic summer swells. I could've been their guru. After all, I thought of it first and take myself extremely seriously.

Heartburn Haiku- 147 a.m.

I planned to shred waves,
To get way rad before work.
Dawn patrol is lost.

First acid battle.
I am suffering surfer.
Hail mighty Maalox!

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

A knice kneeboard...kgnarly!

5'10 Lis courtesy of Jeff. Most memorable wave of my last sesion: 3ft peak-late takeoff to knees- into barrel- emerge- kneeboard cutty- stand up- pump down the line- roundhouse. As always, versatility makes things more fun!