Friday, December 28, 2007

Envy or inspiration...

Five days with the in-laws for the holidays is purgatory. We are so very different. How could they have given life to her? Their life is comfortable, stable, and secure. They have everything yet do very little besides having. They paint their days in black and white.

I returned to the coast today. Two sessions to wash away the frustration. My beautiful wife and miraculous son return tomorrow. In the meantime, thoughts have been coalescing about what's to be done in life that makes it more than an existential exercise.

These two think they have figured it out. Visit their site. I defy you not to dream of your own wanderings. Your dreams might not take the same form, but like Cezanne's hillsides- their travels are the essential form that clearly communicates our shared visions of excellent wanderings.
The water is cold. Brrr.

I really like this video...

frontside lis fish

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Friday, December 21, 2007


I'm having a little trouble with the extra six inches of foam in this fish. I usually ride 5'6- 5'8. This is a 6' and a bit beefier. It's as fast as can be and perfectly suited to longer reef/point waves. The trouble is, I mostly surf beachbreak. In three sessions it has been either a star or a black hole. Fat, high tide walls= speed and high lines from here to the sand. This morning's dumpy peaks- not so fun. I never had a wave where it felt "right". I lost my board on a third of my waves (very rare for humble old me). On one of the waves, I took too steep a line from the takeoff, the board tracked more straight, I knew I was going swimming so I jumped into the waves for a little bodysurf. Happy dolphining but beside me must have been the sought after Frye. I rammed it with my face. I am a kook. I suppose that's one of the reasons why surfing is fun- learning new boards and new ways to injure your pride.

But seriously- I will trade this 6' Frye in excellent condition for a 5'6-5'8 Frye in similar condition. talk amongst yourselves.

Monday, December 17, 2007

More help...

I may be coming into a classic board that needs restoration beyond my meager abilities. We're talking delams, color, dings, the whole nine. recommendations?

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

MPG and space for three (boards)...

So I need help choosing my next car. Chances are slim I will get my Element back so I'm planning for the inevitable. Requirements: good gas mileage, space for boards 5'6" to 7'6" inside, good safety. I need your ideas! My wife nixed the Honda Fit (surprisingly versatile interior) because of safety concerns. Everything else is wide open.

Recent events...

Matt is a charger. The board is a 9'.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

When it rains...

This is me a year and change ago in front of my car in my driveway. Today, when I went out to get the paper, I discovered that my car had been stolen out of the same driveway. First my favorite Lis, now my car. I must've done something to deserve this- but I can't figure out what. I need to make on offering or do penance or sacrifice something. Damn.

Board pictured is the Lis I still own, though it has been mangled on baja point surf rock bounces.


Skip and Josh talk shaping and shop.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007


I've been ill with (another) stomach flu and have not eaten since Sunday. My wife took me on a drive to check the waves.

The Jewel-
Lobster Lounge was maxed out as was every other reef along that infamous stretch. A few waves were breaking out at Legend Hydrodynamic Innovators but the paddle looked destructive. The only waves I saw ridden in that area were some serious barrels at a bodyboarding haven towards the equator from the Kneeboard Womb. 3 sponges were dropping into 6' round pits. Good Luck Charms was the biggest wave I saw- tough to tell size but I'm guessing in the 15' range. Emergency Rooms showed a big rideable wave, but the sets were detonating the lineup zone- no one out. The Cove held a bunch of shoulder hoppers and some guys getting legit rides. Good size and the winds were really good. Blacks was huge with canyon sets looking to be as gut-wrenching as any day.

I still haven't eaten- but I'm the hungriest I've been all winter. Maybe tomorrow.

Gone (mind) surfin'...

Umm, so, I er, am, hmm, speechless. Let's hope for a delay on pay to play.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

In search of...

The Surfer's Journal is my favorite read. There are a couple of articles/issues that have slipped into the crannies of domestic life and time that I would love to read once again. I've checked with my buddies, most of whom are more prone to read the "Tiger Beat" and
"Seventeen" versions of surf periodicals, and found nothing. If you live in the Sin Diego area and wouldn't mind letting me peruse an old copy I would be very grateful. I know this violates statute 13.a, section 5 of Blog Law- "To meet another online entity is to reveal truth both favorable and unseemly and shall therefore be avoided". I'll take my chances. Thanks in advance.
Articles of interest:

- Boat camp article
- Mat riding article
- Hidden California (written by Kew, I believe)