Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Autumnal melancholy...

Azure Vista
Check your chakra
Archie's regular footed twin
Downhill from my alma mater

This day, one of many, marks the official beginning of my professional year. I load into the car and drive to my coastal school. I smile and prepare for small lives to walk through my door. I puzzle over how best to engage young minds and inspire mindful living.

I find a corner of my mind in which to replay my summer days. This corner, solar powered, is always glowing.

I smell the salt and the seaweed in the air and take a walk to the edge of my school's playground. There, a trail into a sacred space. There, a view to the sacred sea.

The swells roll in. The crowds roll out. Who says the seasons don't change in San Diego?
Northwest. Three to five. Santa Ana. 58 degrees. A favorite reef on the mat. A favorite sandbar on the fishy. A "walk-in" wave on a thruster.

Yes, back to work for me. I've lessons to plan. I mean sessions.

Monday, August 11, 2008

Summer Sliding Snaps, Small Kine...





Thanks for the photos, Garrett. Fun Summer days need to be remembered!

Got to surf a littler board today. Fun li'l windswell provided a nice canvas. My hand was a bit wobbly but it was fun nonetheless.

Friday, August 8, 2008

Sea Creatures...

My wife just left me at home so that she could go surfing with a friend. The allure of the pacific syncopated joy machine calls to all who dare spend a rare moment in her embrace- wives and mothers are not exempt. Now she wants to transition from the trusty funboard to a proper noserider, "I want to hang ten toes over, Ands!". Now she wants to get racks for her car. Now she wants me to watch the gremmie while she shreds the gnar. Speaking of the G.Grom- I stuck a little fishy in the soft sand and let the waves float it a little bit while he was "surfing" on it. I believe we have another stoked out summer surf rat to deal with at Archie's come a few solstices from now. A family like mine is a gift. A family who loves to surf together is destined for many delicious south swells spent gathering the gifts of the sea.

You see, the title of this blog is ironic.