Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Gener(aliz)ations...

Terry Martin has literally spent as much time holding a Skil 100 in his hands as Griffin has spent breathing. And yet, there is a kinship.

A web of experience links us dynamically. There is the shared excitement of the night-before-the-dawn, the early bird's delight, The moment of real fear when you are a ghost of your dream surfer, peering over the edge of your local break at just-out-of-comfort-zone size. We see it in each others' eyes, glassed over from a glass half-full outlook on life born of a transcendental pursuit. The pedestrian act of the surf check is our weekly parade through the stations of the cross. Our collective memory revolves around saints who you might meet on State Street or on the hills of Oregon. Accessible, assessable.

But really, it is a selfish enterprise. We want to share the love of the experience, but not the wave. A grand argument between theologians has long surrounded the question of the true nature of the human spirit. Are we generous and good? Are we selfish and bad? Yes.

And in the picture above Griffin is listening. And Terry is telling. And so goes the stoke of one surfer to another. Shaper of yesterday and now to shaper of tomorrow. Here is the difference. Here is how surfing and surfboards are different. Mass produced commodities of the pre-pubescent mega consumer be damned. Bring forth the young and the willing to listen, learn, surf, and shape. Griffin, when you shape your 100th look me up. I've got an order for you.

Photo Marsek

12 comments:

pranaglider said...

Nice piece!

Lot's of people talking about how this photo is the best one to come out of this AB3 or maybe any other.


(If there was only a follow up shot of Messrs Martin and Griffin swapping boards out in the water)

tres_arboles said...

The best surf bloggers are the one's not singing their own praises as "writers." You're in that category with posts like this. While some pictures do indeed speak a thousands words, some could use a thoughful caption like yours above, to help tell the whole story. Have a great rest of the week.

Best,

David

borntoloser said...

Yeah, I was just kickin around the net when this pic caught me in the gut. Love it.

danosurf said...

that is an awesome photo. I checked out Griffin's board and was super impressed. I have only shaped about half of what Terry has ( which puts me at a pretty good number) and I must say, don't wait till his 100th, get one now and stoke the kid out. His boards look great for only have shaped 20 or so.

I checked out your boards and was super stoked on the bigger fry and the both lis boards you had. I wanted to have a go on both or a lest on the bigger fry but got caught up flapping my jaw and when I got a chance to brake away the wind was blowing pretty good , maybe next year

Danny said...

Great post!

borntoloser said...

DanO- the big fishy will be swimming again next year. You'll have to give it a spin. It was nice meeting you. I think you're right about Griffin- pretty good for a whippersnapper:)

Danny- Thanks! I hope fatherhood is treating you well! Mine just turned 3!

Anonymous said...

Great write up! You should link to the photographer and place the photo credit with the image though.

borntoloser said...

Anon- nice suggestion and thanks.

nm said...

great photo & post...

R4TH said...

Neat shot, mutual concentration, off topic-any update/report on the saturday morning mat-festivities? thanks.

borntoloser said...

R4TH- Conditions look marginal but surfable. Check 23breaths.blogspot.com for ongoing conversation.

Thanks for your kind words.

the dirtiest hippy said...

check out the GARDNERS a-z guide to growing... its a basic gardening book.... a good start.

you should get a group of friends to help you get started....

or take a permaculture design class

-gilda