Sunday, March 14, 2010

The change due...


Derek Hynd from aramis17 on Vimeo.
From Andrew Kidman's Litmus. Derek Hynd=an original.

We've reached the plateau, now the pinnacle awaits. Broken are the molds that mandated clear, three-finned, rocker-wafers. Matriculated memories are the leftovers of the counter culture rumblings and psychedelia of the down rail Hynson missions. Simmons' machines and the wooden wonders of ancient Hawai'i have come into focus. Greenough, Duke, Blake, Downing, Alter, Quigg, Kivlin, Anderson- there is now a timeline to trace, a story to be told that is divergent in its interpretations. Some would say progress is in the air, spinning and grinning with youthful exuberance. Others would place progress under the feet of those who pay homage to the past in their careful, poised surfing. I say yes. The wannabeards and be-stickered both have a stake in the now. The technicrati and the stylized dramatists play a role. The giggling wompers and the scowling swell wranglers all eat at the same table. Be self-aware but not self-conscious. Be joyful and respectful. Be a watcher and an emulator but also an original.
We are in the age of surf sincerity. Nobody who matters cares what you look like. How does it feel? Are you ecstatic? Are you freed? How does it make you feel?

5 comments:

reef said...

good stuff. thanks.

Steve and Cher Pendo said...

thanks, Andy. We really enjoyed seeing this footage from Andrew's Litmus again, one of our favorite films of all time. Derek's surfing is so expressive, love it.
Aloha, Cher

thefunkandthefuzz said...

Makes me feel good. The future is now. Tomorrow is unwritten.

Anonymous said...

I really like what you said there...excellent!! Litmus is such a great flick! The music is hypnotic!

borntoloser said...

Reef, MG, Anon, thanks.
Pendos- "expressive" is so right on. DH brings out the art in surfing. He reminds me how free an activity it is.