No leash, white board with no lam. I expected no vibes as I headed down south past the super-localized right reef. My goal was a left that works well on extremely low tides and solid west/north swells. Fun evening session ahead.
Except I forgot one part of the uniform- you can't associate with anyone not wearing the correct uniform.
I was walking down with a buddy who likes to boogie-board.
I pass one guy I saw a week and a half ago at a beachbreak and he gives me the cold stare and gives my buddy worse. Last time I saw him he was stoked and happy to talk about boards and Mex. Now I'm a leper.
I pass another guy, well known surfshop dude. I used to sell him fins and stuff as a sales rep. I get the arctic glare and my buddy gets worse. We used to be quite cordial.
Prejudice? Paranoia?
Had a great session and walked back north and up the bluff in the dark. Back to work today and looking forward to another arvo session.
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5 comments:
Fun wave. If I am thinkin' you were up around LA county. Cool words you got on this site.
Thanks, Push. The wave is actually south a bit. (Think Navy and Nazarenes) Sorry to be cryptic- just a little surfer's precaution. It seems like you have LA county wired. How's your water quality?
I used to make that walk a couple times a month when I lived down thier. Kinda miss it. For some reason a buddy of mine always seemed to be thinking the same thought when he woke up. Wouldn't call each other, hadn't seen each other since the last time. Would just end up going down and meeting up somewhere along the trail. Everytime I think about that area, I think of surfing with him.
The classic story of hopalong pal at problem spot was from a friend of mine...
"They wanted to kick his ass...I told him he was on his own...unless he put up a good fight."
I don't know if he meant he'd step in and defend...or help kick his ass.
Grew up in that area and always disliked the vibes. Still, we caught many a day at the right reef you're talking about, uncrowded, chest-high and sparkling. Won't bother if there's a crowd on it.
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