Thursday, January 3, 2008

When life gives you lemons...

December 31, 2007

Nice sandbar setup at favorite early morning beachbreak, "Slim Pickin's". Nice shoulder to head swell running. The fish is flying. A little high line sliding and foam bounce climbing. A few kneelo tubes and keel track trails.

Speedo sets up the blackball. I, one of only a few cattle at this particularly fertile peak, am herded south, past the flag. A few waves come through, but now I have to share. The fish went solitary. I sneak a left into the blackball and belly in to the shore. Boogie was in the car but soon found its way to the water. Reclaim said peak with only one other boogie player.

First wave offers two in and outs. Second wave offers off the top reverse spin. Third wave offers full leg stall to dead stop in the shade. All in all a nice trade off. One big set offers a nice closeout view- I let my toy drift to the sand where a friend picks it up for me.

Now fins and I are immersed. Three nice body slides and I'm ready for the shore. The water is chilly when you're fully submerged.

Fish, kneel, sponge, fins...fun.

3 comments:

pranaglider said...

exactly

brownfish said...

I want to get me some fins, and maybe make a little handgun. Often days I have more fun body surfing in to get my lost board than I do actually surfing. Go Figure.

asmith said...

Brown- May I suggest a summertime walk through the La Jolla reefs? You will find many sets of fins washed up after a good size swell. I haven't bought fins since I was about 12.