True (Glass) Love...

We all know the ebb and flow of the surfing life. You're on it and score, you're burnt and need to bodysurf for a month before you want to touch a board again. But always the waves beckon. Our wives know this too. "Surf widow" is a little too snarky a quip for me, but I get it. I leave my wife and family to surf often. I try to be considerate. But all the cold winter long while she is in dry dock my wife is gracious enough to encourage my surfing. Well, she outdid herself in the encouragement department...

Last Sunday she organized a celebration for my 30th, thirty-eth, thirtieth, three tens-eth, not a kid anymore-eth birthday. I surfed with friends, was taken to breakfast (Naked Breakfast in Sports Arena) and then was given a remarkable gift. Blank, talent, time, conversation, stoke shared with Josh Hall. I don't know Josh well, just a few times talking while surfing or in the lot. I'm happy to say that he is a cool guy with a ton of talent. He is a continuation of a lineage of surfing and shaping authenticity. No machines, honest marketing, real surfer.

Amy, Thanks for an amazing gift. 5'8" mini-fish simmons quad, shaped as I watched and chatted. Currently at Moonlight awaiting glassing.