Thursday, April 10, 2008

Three days...

Will trade these^^^^ for these\/\/\/\/

Teaching is a tornado, managed. The storm has passed for a springtime week. Three of my five free days GG is covered by my dad (grandpa) for a few hours in the morning.

Day one: The fish is flying on some lined up civil rights and a few of Archie's lefts. The top end on the jhall is unbelievable. I am not the archer for the arrow-yet. The Bamboo fins have twang and look nice but they are just too tracky on the board. Slide them up and lose drive, slide them back and it gets too stiff. I meet a last left and let my board take the wave to the shore. A bodysurf exit is cleansing. Free t-shirt in the parking lot stokes me out for the day.

Day two: South wind and lumpy shoulder-high destroyers. The mat is the call. The short period beachbreak has me bouncing like a rubber ducky. I deflate and swim to the outside. I inflate and surf to the inside. Rinse, repeat. The mat is replaced by a pair of fins and a body. So pure, so intimate. The lineup is mine alone, until dolphins, my aquatic superior (only aquatic?) join me. Seven feet of torpedo on a wave next to you while bodysurfing really makes you giggle. Talking to dolphins while bodysurfing with them is not strange. Not talking to dolphins while bodysurfing with them is strange.

Day Three: Put on the turbo canards. Oh. My. Gard. The lift generated by those fins is unbelievable. Swoops and cutbacks, outruns the section... These fins are staying on the fishy for a while. I will trade you my bamboo lb1/4 for your glass turbo canard quad cutaways? Killer session. So killer I ride only one surf vehicle. Unfortunately, no surf tomorrow. Being a dad, however, is a great ride in it's own right.

Days one and three saw RK ripping Civil Rights on what appeared to be a Lis Twin. Hey RK, when should we plan on the premier of Hydrodynamica? I know, "when it's done".

1 comment:

polaris said...

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