Thursday, July 31, 2008
Kook on parade...
I finally glassed on the fin to this old log and it's seen the water a bit recently. Kind of a Piggy outline straight from '63. My reluctance to drive anywhere but my parking- lot-friendly beach (doesn't get much south) and a smashed toe on a rock scramble have been relegating(gifting?) me to a bunch of longboarding time. I am a kook. I wobble, I stumble, I flail. Still, it is fun and interesting putting your mind and body through the paces of a new challenge.
I'm out on this log and I'm doing okay. Trim and some cross stepping. I'm chatting about how the board is soooo hard to noseride. No concave, narrow nose, convex bottom. The whole nine- yards. Well, out comes Shredder R., who happens to ride for Josh Hall longboards. We trade boards. He gets a nice little five through the pocket on his first wave. What's that old saying, "It's the archer, not the arrow."
One nice thing about surfing: It's not a contest. Instead of being defeated, I am inspired. The next couple of days I worked on getting to the nose in the pocket. I'm proud to say I've hung my first real, true, no cheatsy five. Well, pass me my beavertail and grow me a beard. So now I'm thinking of ordering a true noserider for next summer. Please help me choose.
Finish this statement in the comments section and help me choose my first custom log*:
"Asmith, you would totally get rad noserides on an effing perfect log by ___________. I recommend ____________."
*Any and all recommendations suggesting machine shaped boards will be swiftly mocked.