-I like my job, but I don't like how my surf sessions per week go from 5 or more to two. Having an ocean view from my school doesn't help.
-I prefer not wearing a leash (leach?) but ever since I slammed my toe and took a header on the rocks down to a be-jeweled avian reef I have been less than confident and have worn my leash even in mellow beachbreak about half of the time.
-I love that Skippy Fish on a lined up wall, but I enjoyed a recent Beachy session much more after swapping the 6' keel for a 8' Frye Thinman for a few waves, courtesy of one of the most stylish Frye-influenced surfers you'd ever want to meet, John.
-I was cold today in my spring suit. Fall is coming!
-I have a board on order that I have been waiting for since I was in my twenties. My feet are itching to slide a few on it's smoothed laterality. Yes, I invented a new word.
-I had a skunk die under my house on the same weekend that my in-laws were visiting.
-I want to replace my 11' Frye Eagle . But Waves Forever, the Japanese outfit with a great stable of shapers, was asking way too much. More than 2Gs less than 5.
-I'm a little intrigued by the Greg Griffin Modfish 5 fin. But also a little suspicious. A lot of hype out there.