Saturday, September 6, 2008



-I like my job, but I don't like how my surf sessions per week go from 5 or more to two. Having an ocean view from my school doesn't help.

-I prefer not wearing a leash (leach?) but ever since I slammed my toe and took a header on the rocks down to a be-jeweled avian reef I have been less than confident and have worn my leash even in mellow beachbreak about half of the time.

-I love that Skippy Fish on a lined up wall, but I enjoyed a recent Beachy session much more after swapping the 6' keel for a 8' Frye Thinman for a few waves, courtesy of one of the most stylish Frye-influenced surfers you'd ever want to meet, John.

-I was cold today in my spring suit. Fall is coming!

-I have a board on order that I have been waiting for since I was in my twenties. My feet are itching to slide a few on it's smoothed laterality. Yes, I invented a new word.

-I had a skunk die under my house on the same weekend that my in-laws were visiting.

-I want to replace my 11' Frye Eagle . But Waves Forever, the Japanese outfit with a great stable of shapers, was asking way too much. More than 2Gs less than 5.

-I'm a little intrigued by the Greg Griffin Modfish 5 fin. But also a little suspicious. A lot of hype out there.


jeff said...

Hello B to L...can you tell me more about the "Thinman"? I was going to get another egg, but...thanks, jeff

asmith said...

Hi Jeff,
The Thinman seems like it would be a little more versatile in bigger waves than the egg. Same smooth entry and happy rail turning. Same Frye rails and sensitive tail. Oh, the tail is a kind of thumb shape. Foil seems to be closer to the magic model than a classic egg. If you order one shoot me an email. a smith at dee em you es dee dot org.

Doc said...


That Thinman looks a little hullish?

True or no?

asmith said...

Doc- Maybe a touch. Skip tends to put a bit of roll or belly into the front third of his boards to make paddling/entry a bit smoother. I can't say that it's a hull by any means. It turns well off the rails and from the middle of the board, but I think that has more to do with the foil through the rails than any belly at all. No s-deck at all. Still very fun and trims a dream like all skip's boards.