Friday, July 24, 2009

All rules apply...

- JEwing pic of a real poster Somewhere, USA-

So many sessions with compromises. So many mediocre swells. So many slalom runs through crowded shoulders. So many glares and stares because of backpaddling and lack of etiquette. Today, a day with definite swell, I needed a more satisfying experience. Where to go...

I headed to Opposite Viejo's. Here is a wave with fine form. A birthplace of innovation, a bastion of civility- sometimes maintained through incivility. Waves were sleek and running down the reef in beautiful syncopation. The low tide was helping to open some almond-eyed barrel sections. There were no leashes in the lineup even though the waves were head high and fast. If you didn't make the barrel or fell on a turn, you swam. Good surfers were taking turns in a semi-orderly fashion. I, an interloper by any measure, was graced with many fine waves. I shared a couple of mat waves with Pflex and Tmat. Fish and fin originators were enjoying their earned status in the lineup.

I am grateful that there are still a very few spots like this one- spots where a healthy dose of proud localism and common sense surf etiquette combine in ways that create order and opportunity in the lineup.

Tomorrow, a weekend with swell, I'm off to a less frequented locale, or perhaps just The Drive Through...

7 comments:

pranaglider said...

Nice piece!

Sorry I missed you guys.

Anonymous said...

The system works there. You leave the water with good feelings, and respect for a special place on the planet.

Tmat

tres_arboles said...

I had one of the best sessions I ever surfed at that spot with a few friends and a few regulars. I sat and watched for the first 20 minutes and didn't go overboard hooting (nobody like an ass-kisser) and the regs opened the gate. My personal level of surfing improved by a magnatude that day.

Anonymous said...

my personal credo, if you will... show up and get a few, keep your head down and your mouth shut and leave without anyone knowing you were there. So un-brazilian.

Anonymous said...

really, is that a real sign/sticker somewhere? was it put up by the City? who would post such a thing. listen, you overblown "locals" i have a right to surf anywhere and any wave i want just ask my 10 closest friends I brought to the beach with me to cluster up "your" surf spot. just because you were punk enough to let old men push you around doesnt mean you can push me around. KOOKS!

Soulglider (always in jest)

PS Geno Cult rules the Jetty!

borntoloser said...

I l o v e it.

Felipe Siebert said...

true ... most Brazilians do not have education in and out of the water ...

but the worst thing is that I live in a place full of them (Brazil)! hehe ...

brazilans assholes! are burning my image!!!! fuck!!!