1977, Huffman, Rex. The Banzai Pipeline. Oahu, Hawai'i. Photo: Jeff Divine.
Flat, short, wide, keeled and kneeled.
In the middle of a satisfying session it happens. You've been enjoying some speed runs, turns, and stylish this'n'thats. You're feeling good about your surfing. You're in rhythm, you've got a flow. You even start to feel a couple of sets of eyes watching you. All is right with in the salty sea.
Then it happens. The peak down the beach gets bombed by a beaut. Overhead and hollow. Only that mysto-kneelo is down there, where only he tends to lurk. He's too deep. He'll pass it up. He'll never make the late drop. Oh, well, maybe he's going to try it. Oh, wow, he made the drop. Oh, damn. He's deepish. Oh, yeah. He's going to make it. Perhaps he's on to something.
Knees if you please.
Half-stance for a chance.
Cripple-style for a while.
Half-man is the plan.
Turns high-g for li'l ol' me.
Find each little barrel a true kneelo-style feral.
I'll pass on the fins, though. I like to standup on those kneesleds too.
In the middle of a satisfying session it happens. You've been enjoying some speed runs, turns, and stylish this'n'thats. You're feeling good about your surfing. You're in rhythm, you've got a flow. You even start to feel a couple of sets of eyes watching you. All is right with in the salty sea.
Then it happens. The peak down the beach gets bombed by a beaut. Overhead and hollow. Only that mysto-kneelo is down there, where only he tends to lurk. He's too deep. He'll pass it up. He'll never make the late drop. Oh, well, maybe he's going to try it. Oh, wow, he made the drop. Oh, damn. He's deepish. Oh, yeah. He's going to make it. Perhaps he's on to something.
Knees if you please.
Half-stance for a chance.
Cripple-style for a while.
Half-man is the plan.
Turns high-g for li'l ol' me.
Find each little barrel a true kneelo-style feral.
I'll pass on the fins, though. I like to standup on those kneesleds too.
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3 comments:
Nice piece Mr Smith! Makes one want to go out and pull in !!
Prana, thanks. I've tried to comment on about five of your posts in the last month but can't seem to get the bloggergods on my side. Anyways, hope all is swell.
Agree.
Awesome write up.
Kneed for speed.
--pushingtide
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