Friday, December 21, 2007

Hunter/prey...

I'm having a little trouble with the extra six inches of foam in this fish. I usually ride 5'6- 5'8. This is a 6' and a bit beefier. It's as fast as can be and perfectly suited to longer reef/point waves. The trouble is, I mostly surf beachbreak. In three sessions it has been either a star or a black hole. Fat, high tide walls= speed and high lines from here to the sand. This morning's dumpy peaks- not so fun. I never had a wave where it felt "right". I lost my board on a third of my waves (very rare for humble old me). On one of the waves, I took too steep a line from the takeoff, the board tracked more straight, I knew I was going swimming so I jumped into the waves for a little bodysurf. Happy dolphining but beside me must have been the sought after Frye. I rammed it with my face. I am a kook. I suppose that's one of the reasons why surfing is fun- learning new boards and new ways to injure your pride.

But seriously- I will trade this 6' Frye in excellent condition for a 5'6-5'8 Frye in similar condition. talk amongst yourselves.

1 comment:

jeff said...

No luck? If you happen to see a 6'9" twinny Skip let me know. I've got a buddy that has a 7'5" Choice for sale if you know anyone. see ya