Sunday, May 25, 2008

Quadfecta complete...

The quadfecta is complete! In March, with a shoulder high groundswell running, I undertook the greatest challenge ever conceived in surfdom- the quadfecta! My goal: to get barreled standup, kneelo, boogie, and body surfing in one session . My tools of victory were 5'6 Chris Christenson keel (not ghostshaped by his able ghostie nor machined by KKL), 41" BZ boogie, Mismatched pair of swim fins- size medium large. It took me two barnacle scraping donut dives before I finally got my standup keg. A little pigdog number (I'm sure you've seen the pictures.) My kneelo wave came to me quickly. This was the belle of the ball. A speed run through the barrel over the shelf to the pinching shoulder. My boogie barrel came a few waves after my equipment change. I got some great near- exits, but my in and out was a small, boogie-only sized tube. The bodysurfing barrel was easy. I drifted right in front of the shelf until a little wedge came through. I had to duck a dozen waves or so, but that's not so hard without a board. I exited the water to cheers and was doused with champagne on the rocks overlooking The Rock.

Below: the wave where the quadfecta was (at last) completed. Will anyone ever dare to attempt such a feat again? Oh, I think that is Matuse's Ian O' getting some good ones in the vid.
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4 comments:

Danny said...

Bravo!

May 27, 2008 at 10:38 AM
Beach Bum said...

I'll second that...

May 27, 2008 at 12:05 PM
Brent McD. said...

what up ian. you shoulda been deeper, ha!

May 30, 2008 at 11:48 AM
23 Breaths said...

Not sure is compares with your other trifecta of Father, Husband and Teacher but why quibble?

We need to get back together for another mat session.

June 5, 2008 at 7:19 AM

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