Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Sensation unseen...


Thanks for the pics, KD!


These are pictures of me on a mat. The fact is, I have only seen two or three pictures of mat riding that I feel represent the experience even moderately. Most mat riding pictures are rather...unsatisfying.



It provides such disequilibrium for me. When I ride a mat I feel dynamically connected to a wave. Connected to the texture of the wave with only air as my medium. I feel like I could plane from power pocket to power pocket. I don't feel like a potato shaped lump sliding along a wave. I don't feel like a glorified rubber ducky. But that is what I look like.



Like I said, disequilibrium. I suppose if we all did things only for appearances' sake it would be a sad, monolithic world. Oh wait, it almost is.



Maybe bodysurfing would look cooler...

4 comments:

jb said...

As rad as Greenough is, he still has that look you're talking about (on a mat, not a spoon). I haven't seen mat footage (in my limited exposure) that has ever tempted me to try it. But that's you're point, it's about how it feels, period. Who cares about how others see it as long as you feel it. It's the same thing with a sponge and how much of a complex there is with riding one if you're a stand-up. I've never cared what people ride (okay, kites and kayaks can get to me). I rode a boogie board two summers ago after I don't know how many years. Nice hot summer day and hollow shorebreak...it was so much fun. So, why did I feel weird about it?

Anonymous said...

because it was neon pink?

jb said...

No, but my trunks were. Neon pink Birdwells are the shit.

23 Breaths said...

A one point I understand that some people were concerned that mat riding would become too popular. I don't think so due to the "sensation unseen" phenomena you mention. So without Hollywood surf movies, contests and major media (mater and mating magazines)mating will continue to be a underground sport. (despite JB's hot pink birdwells;)