Saturday, December 13, 2008

A (true) fish story...

Kneeboard womb and the home of my fishy benefactor...Thanks John, wherever you are!

A fun, messy sneak-it-in -before-the-weather-hits session this morning leads to a tedious sneak-it-in-before-Christmas-hits shopping session. I visit JB's new tea shop in South Park. Very nice. I stopped by imported unfair trade supermart. I end up at a bookstore. "Hmmm, Surfer Mag." You know, the one that once featured journalism, editorials, and coherent thought for an eclectic surfer readership. I proceed to thumb through a multiple page "article" about the evolution of the fish surfboard based on the ...Lost brand movie "5'5" x 19 15/12". (Fun movie by the way). It mentions some key movers and covers some basics. Great. It also features quotes by no one except Matt Biolas (sp) ...Lost's main loser. The only photos accompanying the article are frame grabs from the film. Question: since when did advertising dollars decide the content of Surfer Magazine? Oh, yeah, for a long time now. Blatant. Boring. Predictable. Garbage. It's as if Surfers are a bunch of sheep looking for someone to tell us how to spend our cash. Well, if you need someone to tell you where to spend your surf-related disposable income, just let me know. I'll point you in the direction of some seriously interesting surfers, shapers, craftspeople, and thinkers who deserve any press they get.

Anyways, Here's a true fish story- mine. I used to be a serious Bodyboarder while in High School. I'd frequent the above hollow left reef. Kneeboarder by the name of JFinn stopped by my Mission blvd. home and
gave me a quad kneeboard. He said he'd like to see me on it, thought I might enjoy it. It was a Stu Kenson shape under the label "evening glass", nice foam inset deck, 5'4 x wide but nicely foiled. I enjoyed the board as a kneeboard, but really got hooked (ha) once I started to surf it standing up. That gift led to my ongoing infatuation with the smooth, speed-on-demand world of fish surfboards. I later gave the board to my buddy, Matt, who happens to be one of the more naturally gifted surfers I've known. You can't keep a board that is given to you....

Don't get ...Hooked,
get hooked.


jb said...


Man, sorry I missed you at the shop today. We were prepping for the opening party and I didn't get in until later. If you get a chance, stop in soon and we'll catch up. I really appreciate you coming in today.


Kirk said...

On the real fish deal, been meaning to let you know the Mackie flextail is in the SD with Richard Kenvin- look out for him at Windansea and claim a ride. New sidecut flextail arrives next week (I hope) and one will be a demo for a while at least it seems. Stoked on a new tea shop too, I'll definitely check that out next time I'm down that way.

Erik Hakon Olson (EHO) said...


Nice to see you Saturday morning.

As far as the surfer article goes, I guess it's the old case of "The victors write the history"?

It's nice we have people to remember the real deal. I'm not sure how much more fish evolution it gets than talking about boards of the nature you describe at the wave you picture. Nice.

asmith said...

JB- I'll catch up with you. Cool spot you have there. I wish you all the best and am wiling to put a few purchases towards it.

Kirk- Thanks for thinking of me. I'll talk to RK when I see him next. Hopefully I can arrange a test pilot run. I rarely head to Windansea but may have to make a stop just for this purpose.

EHO- It was cool seeing you as well. Hopefully I'll run into you again some time soon.


if you see john finn make sure and tell him ambrose said hi -- don't make it down that way much.

used to hang at the "lounge" with him quite a bit back in the day -- s.a.