Tuesday, December 2, 2008

The heroes you know...

David Eggers, Loungin'

A conversation about political messiahs leads to a blurt. "We're all a little bit of hero."

Mid '90's I spent an hour or many at this left reef. Eggers was the first guy to inspire me from inside the tube. No matter how much perfect pipeline you see on celluloid, nothing prepares you for the high drama of heavy tube riding- witnessed or experienced first hand. TSJ had an article about Eggers a bit back. It gave a nice snap of the arc of experience that occurs in even the hero's platinum life. "We're all a little bit of hero."

Be thankful for the heroes you know or have known. Be thankful for proximity to inspiration. Be thankful for the opportunity to be someone else's hero.


tres_arboles said...

I was around San Diego during that kid's ascendency and had heard he fell to the cheap thrills that catch up many a beach community kid: drugs and alcohol. While I can't say I know much about his surfing, I do know that spot and your comment, "...nothing prepares you for the high drama of heavy tube riding..." is especially true there given the ledge that wave hits. Falls there are, er, uncomfortable to say the least and it always amazed me to see others (I never got shacked there) just rush the place when it got good.



two posts on here that stike a chord and bring up old memories --

for those fortunate to catch his act back then, pure genius in the tube , not to mention some of those side slip slabby air drops!!

one of these days gonna ride the scoot down to cap'n jims at salton sea and pay egghead and the old man a visit -- s.a.

asmith said...

3 and AMbrose- nice to hear you have first hand knowledge of the place and person.

I once saw a guy go over the falls on a set wave on a medium size day and hit the shelf. He ended up dislocating his soul or something. Guys had to swim him into the beach.

I'll take wimp waves nowadays.