Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Surfers' weekend. No swell showed on Saturday. Only marginal waves. Ridiculous crowds. Beautiful conditions. Got a few lined up sliders.
Sunday it begins. I drive from priceless pier to holiness haven. Lots of spots with some waves. Lots of lulls between waves. Lots of people complaining about the lots of people. A little county knowledge leads to many beautiful waves with a more manageable crowd. The longest lefts I've surfed in years. 100 yards if they were an inch. About head high, perfect glass.
Monday it continues. No looking around, just surfing. Same spot, same result. I dared an hour p.m. session at Civil Rights. A few beautiful waves come through. I catch six. I am dropped in on three times. Twice by don't-know-betters, once by "ASmith is too deep" guy. I wasn't too deep.
I am not complaining. I scored.
I had two really grunmply moments. A SUP guy paddles out and wobbles in the impact zome losing his boat towards me and others repeatedly. I snap a little and embarassingly refer to him as "bobblehead" and "Kooky". "ASmith is too deep guy" gets a tirade about looking behind him and so on. Embarassing.
Don't be me. Don't become angry crowd surfer guy. I probably rode twenty waves of high quality over two days and countless more average waves. All of this in beautiful Socal conditions. Yet I found a way to be episodically grumpy. This is my penance, my public flaggelation. I apologize.
I give thanks.