Thursday, January 29, 2009

A duo..



Notable. After a few sessions with more accomplished MatMen, namely Kendog and TRedondo, I'm gaining a bit more confidence on the towel. Saturday last, Jtweet and I enjoy some prone beauties. Long lefts in glassy conditions. Lesson one: too much air, no good. I played with inflation a bit to come back to the same conclusion. I like it about 90 degrees. There's a magic point of diminishing returns that a sensible mat rider cannot pass for fear of losing the flattened-out low-friction flutter of the mat. Lesson two: Don't leave your squid lid on top of the car and drive away. It's been a cold, flat winter. Now it will be just that much colder. And I am undeniably wimpy when it comes to cold.

Notable. The wind shifts on Sunday. "Dude, everywhere is, like, victory at sea". Nope. find a little sheltered beachbreak to enjoy with Mcheats. just the two of us and fast peaks disappearing onto the sand. Stoked. When I surf really fast waves with a really good surfer I am reminded that I am an average surfer with an above average level of surf stoke. It's a good life, this surfing life.

7 comments:

Surfsister said...

I'm jealous. I need to get together with some experienced mat folks. Of course, everyone is experienced compared to me. I wanted to mat today, but there wasn't enough swell in the water. Oh well.

borntoloser said...

Ss-We'll try to do another mat meet this spring!

pranaglider said...

Count me in for the next mat meet as well.
Maybe more waves by spring!
Regards to Tom and Ken

borntoloser said...

Prana- maybe we'll make it in the trestles/sano area this time.

cloud said...

whasup wit dat groovy curvd mat? who make da tings? me want one!
peace

borntoloser said...

Cloud- dale solomonson, neumatic. search and ye shall find.

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