Thursday, January 29, 2009
Notable. After a few sessions with more accomplished MatMen, namely Kendog and TRedondo, I'm gaining a bit more confidence on the towel. Saturday last, Jtweet and I enjoy some prone beauties. Long lefts in glassy conditions. Lesson one: too much air, no good. I played with inflation a bit to come back to the same conclusion. I like it about 90 degrees. There's a magic point of diminishing returns that a sensible mat rider cannot pass for fear of losing the flattened-out low-friction flutter of the mat. Lesson two: Don't leave your squid lid on top of the car and drive away. It's been a cold, flat winter. Now it will be just that much colder. And I am undeniably wimpy when it comes to cold.
Notable. The wind shifts on Sunday. "Dude, everywhere is, like, victory at sea". Nope. find a little sheltered beachbreak to enjoy with Mcheats. just the two of us and fast peaks disappearing onto the sand. Stoked. When I surf really fast waves with a really good surfer I am reminded that I am an average surfer with an above average level of surf stoke. It's a good life, this surfing life.