Thursday, January 29, 2009
A duo..
Notable. After a few sessions with more accomplished MatMen, namely Kendog and TRedondo, I'm gaining a bit more confidence on the towel. Saturday last, Jtweet and I enjoy some prone beauties. Long lefts in glassy conditions. Lesson one: too much air, no good. I played with inflation a bit to come back to the same conclusion. I like it about 90 degrees. There's a magic point of diminishing returns that a sensible mat rider cannot pass for fear of losing the flattened-out low-friction flutter of the mat. Lesson two: Don't leave your squid lid on top of the car and drive away. It's been a cold, flat winter. Now it will be just that much colder. And I am undeniably wimpy when it comes to cold.
Notable. The wind shifts on Sunday. "Dude, everywhere is, like, victory at sea". Nope. find a little sheltered beachbreak to enjoy with Mcheats. just the two of us and fast peaks disappearing onto the sand. Stoked. When I surf really fast waves with a really good surfer I am reminded that I am an average surfer with an above average level of surf stoke. It's a good life, this surfing life.
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6 comments:
I'm jealous. I need to get together with some experienced mat folks. Of course, everyone is experienced compared to me. I wanted to mat today, but there wasn't enough swell in the water. Oh well.
Ss-We'll try to do another mat meet this spring!
Count me in for the next mat meet as well.
Maybe more waves by spring!
Regards to Tom and Ken
Prana- maybe we'll make it in the trestles/sano area this time.
whasup wit dat groovy curvd mat? who make da tings? me want one!
peace
Cloud- dale solomonson, neumatic. search and ye shall find.
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