My Frye...

Begging for a point break!

Lis Fish- Backside...

lisbackside.mov

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Very smooth surfing by RK on a 5'6 Lis.

This was me this morning...

Ripping on my fishy,


Ruling with fins only,

half-man, all momentum!

Or maybe that's Rasta, Stewart and Greenough taken from other sites.
It was a fun surf this morning. My spot had some long sandbars and lots of space. Smoke seems to be clearing up a bit, too. Keep looking for that board!

Some consolation...

My friend, Sei in Japan, a fellow fish lover, sent me this pic as consolation for my recent stolen board. This is an unknown OB surfer (Pendarvis himself?) with a Pendo-Lis hybrid. I have a board on order from Steve. Maybe I could see how one of these rides firsthand? Please keep an eye out for my lost board! Thanks!

Help!

Help!

My favorite board, a 5'8" Steve Lis twin keel was stolen as I surfed last night at Torrey Pines. I must have left the car (silver Element) unlocked. My wallet, keys, phone and everything else were untouched. I chose to ride the shortboard instead of the Lis and I paid for it. If you know or hear anything please contact me. The board had signed Geppy fins and a clark foam lam on the right pin of the fish tail. Please spread the word.

Different Strokes...

This used to be my favorite boogie spot. This winter I am going for the quad-fecta at this wave: get barreled bodysurfing, boogieboarding, kneeboarding and surfing all during the same session!

During high school and college I used to be a very low level professional bodyboarder. I got one paycheck. One. Then I went on to be a sales rep for a few bodyboard, fin and clothing lines. It was fun. I still like to boogie some shorebreak! the photo galleries in A-Frame are pretty good. I actually learned to surf before boogie-ing. I guess the call of the barrel was too strong. Many years later I find myself enjoying all types of surf craft. Have you ever ridden a surfmat? It's enjoyable.

Larmo Large-o

Here's the truth. I love 5'6" fish. That's my go-to size. But I also love 6'6" fish. There used to be a clip here on the world wide web of RK owning scorpion bay on a 6'9". There's something special about the wide tailed slide with the high line glide of a too-big twin keel at a point. Larmo made this one a while back. I sold it a while back. Regrets. Always regrets after a sale.

Frye please?

Photo usurped by force from SurfySurfy
I am currently on a hunt for a Frye Fish. I have/had fish shapes from many notable shapers but somehow never found my feet sliding on a Frye. I don't know Skip. I have friends that do but I'm not one to impose my dreams on others' pragmatism. When I see Skip in the lineup I smile and admire- I would never presume to grovel in hopes of a board (although it has crossed my mind). If you happen upon some fortunate Frye owner in need of a quick payday please contact me. Heck, if you happen to read this, Skip, take favor upon a keel loving surfer! I'll bring you a blank, a donut and a pile of stoke! I went to Mission Bay too! I was a distance runner! Please!

Wanderlust.

I just finished reading a bit from Kimo Hollinger in the new Surfer's Journal. I love his tell-it-like-it-was prose. It is always full of north shore as wild west town imagery and plotline. I wonder if there is another North shore out there?

I had a chance to visit the far north Hawaiian island chain paradise last November. just developed enough for comfort, perfect surf in warm water, Hawaiian culture- unbelievably expensive. Now my skill set travels well. But it doesn't merit much pay. This puts paradise out of reach. Or at least this particular paradise.
Is there a place to serve as my H-bay? My Nias? My Pipeline? My Cape St. Francis?......
Probably. Will I ever find it and make the move? Probably not. Truth be told- I like the shade of green I find on this side of the fence. Once you learn to love an area's waves, to know them, it's hard to consider abandoning that knowledge in a betrayal of geographical dimensions.

Any log heads?

I have had this 60's Harbour for a while. Found in a trash can. Surfed it while it had gashes and no fin. My buddy Matt restored it-partially. I'm ready to hand it off to someone who will finish the job and enjoy the board. If you love logs let me know and perhaps you can have a new (old) one.

Secret Spot!

Sierra Secrets. Jay, Erik, Justin, Andy, Rock, Wind, Water, Elevation, Memory.

The wisdom of the young...

A while back I helped young Cobi work on his solution to beach pollution. Cobi is a good kid with a great family and saltwater in his veins. His little summer project has turned into a surfrider sponsored, full page in surfing magazine, appearing on FUEL TV movement! Let's pick up 3!

Everyone knows...

You can not surf a twinny fish on your backhand.

Eggy!

This is my favorite summer board. Old, floaty and with a spirit all it's own. It needs a restoration but I still ride it-delams and all. I've noticed a resurgence of eggs in the water around SinDiego. Young shapers aren't afraid to carry on the tradition.

Colorado

This last summer, just before school began, we were given a trip to Breckenridge, CO by my parents. I believe their words were "Someone's got to use the timeshare!" Thanks!

Board gone bad

This is a handshaped "bonzer" from Manuel Caro at Mandala surfboards. I ended up with it after trading a handshaped Christenson Slider that was just too much board for me. The bonzer turned out great. Flexy twang off the bottom, high line heaven, nice carves for a fish with 7 1/2-8" pin to pin. A real keeper.

Labor day trip to Baja ended up with some fun swell. Hit a point and a beachy with the bonzer. last surf of the trip I am getting back on the board after kicking out. I slide my hand up the rail and gouge a very large cut into my finger with the side runners! Session ended.

A week or so later I go to take the little bonzer out in some appropriate conditions. Mental block. Psychological trauma. I can't pull the trigger. I pull out a different board. Visions of lacerations dance through...

Board is sold.

Things I Love

G.G.
Amy

Lis Max and Jake

The title of this blog is ironic. I have everything. Monkey, Mermaid, Boards from legendary shapers, Weiner dogs. Not necessarily in that order.