Monday, October 15, 2007


I just finished reading a bit from Kimo Hollinger in the new Surfer's Journal. I love his tell-it-like-it-was prose. It is always full of north shore as wild west town imagery and plotline. I wonder if there is another North shore out there?

I had a chance to visit the far north Hawaiian island chain paradise last November. just developed enough for comfort, perfect surf in warm water, Hawaiian culture- unbelievably expensive. Now my skill set travels well. But it doesn't merit much pay. This puts paradise out of reach. Or at least this particular paradise.
Is there a place to serve as my H-bay? My Nias? My Pipeline? My Cape St. Francis?......
Probably. Will I ever find it and make the move? Probably not. Truth be told- I like the shade of green I find on this side of the fence. Once you learn to love an area's waves, to know them, it's hard to consider abandoning that knowledge in a betrayal of geographical dimensions.

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